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Why We Mask Indian: Honor, Tradition, and Community

In New Orleans, when we talk about “masking Indian,” we’re referring to one of our city’s most sacred cultural traditions. Black Masking Indians, also known as Mardi Gras Indians, represent a unique fusion of African American and Native American cultural heritage that dates back to the 1800s.

The Origins

The tradition began as a way to honor Native American tribes who sheltered enslaved people seeking freedom. It evolved into a complex culture of music, craftsmanship, and community leadership that continues to be passed down through generations.

The Suits

Each year, Indians create elaborate new suits, spending thousands of hours hand-sewing intricate beadwork and crafting massive feathered crowns. These suits tell stories through their imagery and represent both personal expression and cultural continuity.

The colors aren’t random:

  • Red and Yellow: Many Downtown tribes
  • Blue and White: Uptown tribes
  • But each tribe makes its own choices

The Hierarchy

Each tribe has specific roles:

  • Big Chief: The leader who makes major decisions
  • Queen: Often leads the singing and helps guide the tribe
  • Spy Boy: Scouts ahead during processions
  • Flag Boy: Carries the gang’s flag and communicates with the chief
  • Wild Man: Helps clear the way

The Music

The distinctive sound of Indian music comes from tambourines and hand drums, accompanying call-and-response chants that have been passed down and evolved over generations.

Common songs include:

The Calendar

While most associated with Mardi Gras Day, Indians mask on several important dates:

The Culture

  • Practice sessions at community bars
  • The importance of sewing circles
  • Teaching younger generations
  • The role of Indian practice in community leadership

The Protocol

There are specific ways to interact with masking Indians:

  • Ask permission before taking photos
  • Never touch a suit without permission
  • Learn to appreciate the craft and commitment
  • Understand the difference between appreciation and appropriation

Looking Forward

While deeply traditional, Indian culture continues to evolve:

  • New materials and techniques in suits
  • Adapting to climate change (lighter materials for hotter Mardi Gras)
  • Preserving traditions while embracing change
  • Supporting the next generation

How to Support

This post is part of our “Why We…” series exploring the traditions that make New Orleans unique. We gratefully acknowledge the cultural bearers who maintain these traditions and share their knowledge.

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Why We Eat Red Beans on Monday: A New Orleans Tradition That Keeps on Simmering

Bowl of red beans and rice

Walk into any New Orleans restaurant on a Monday, and you’re likely to find red beans and rice on the specials board. Step into any local home, and you might catch the aroma of beans slowly simmering on the stove. This isn’t just a coincidence – it’s a cultural tradition that tells the story of domestic life, cultural fusion, and community in New Orleans.

The Historical Roots

The Monday red beans tradition dates back to the 19th century when Monday was traditionally wash day in New Orleans. Women needed a meal that could cook itself while they tackled the labor-intensive task of washing clothes by hand. Red beans were the perfect solution: they could simmer unattended all day, getting better with each passing hour, seasoned by the ham bone left over from Sunday dinner.

The choice of red beans (rather than other legumes) reflects our Caribbean connections, particularly with Haiti, where red beans are a staple. When thousands of Haitians arrived in New Orleans in the early 1800s, they brought their culinary traditions with them, including their love of red beans.

The Perfect Pot

Ask any New Orleanian about their red beans recipe, and you’ll likely hear, “Well, the way my mama made them…” Every family has their own method, but most agree on a few essentials:

  • The Holy Trinity (onions, celery, and bell pepper)
  • Garlic (the more, the better)
  • Ham hock, pickled meat, or andouille for seasoning
  • Bay leaves
  • Long, slow cooking – never rushed
  • Creamy texture, achieved by mashing some beans against the pot’s side

The beans are always served over rice – another Caribbean influence that became a Louisiana staple. The rice isn’t an afterthought; it’s an integral part of the dish, ideally cooked to fluffy perfection to soak up the creamy bean gravy.

Modern Monday Tradition

Today, the tradition continues both at home and in restaurants across the city. While modern washing machines have eliminated the practical reason for Monday red beans, the cultural significance remains strong. Many offices and schools serve red beans on Mondays, and local musicians know they can count on a plate at their Monday night gig.

Some beloved spots for Monday red beans include:

  • Mandina’s on Canal
  • Joey K’s on Magazine
  • Dooky Chase’s in Treme
  • Cafe Reconcile in Central City
  • The legendary Buster Holmes’ recipe lives on in various restaurants

Weekend Prep Checklist

Planning to cook red beans tomorrow? Here’s your Sunday checklist:

  • Pick up beans, trinity vegetables, and seasoning meat today (most grocery stores get busy Monday morning!)
  • Sort your beans tonight to remove any stones or broken beans
  • Soak your beans overnight in cool water
  • Chop your trinity and store in the fridge to get ahead
  • Check your seasoning supply: bay leaves, garlic, Creole seasoning
  • Have enough rice on hand for tomorrow

Starting Your Own Tradition

Want to join this centuries-old tradition? Here’s how to make perfect Monday red beans:

  1. Start with dry beans (never canned)
  2. Soak them overnight (some skip this step, but it helps)
  3. Use plenty of seasoning meat
  4. Don’t rush – let them simmer at least 3-4 hours
  5. Stir occasionally and add water as needed
  6. They’re done when they’re creamy, with some beans falling apart

More Than Just a Meal

Red beans and rice on Monday isn’t just about food – it’s about community. It’s a reminder of our city’s ability to create beauty and sustenance from simple ingredients and necessity. It’s about family recipes passed down through generations, and the way food connects us to our history and each other.

Whether you’re a newcomer to New Orleans or a lifelong resident, making or eating red beans on Monday is a way to participate in a living tradition that spans generations and crosses all social boundaries. As Louis Armstrong famously signed his letters, “Red beans and ricely yours.”

Red Beans Beyond Monday

While Monday is traditional, red beans have earned their place as a year-round staple. You’ll find them at festival food booths, wedding receptions (yes, really), and even upscale restaurants doing modern interpretations. The Monday tradition has spawned events like Bean Madness (a tournament-style competition for the best red beans) and organizations like the Red Beans Parade, which marches on Lundi Gras with costumes made from dried beans.

This post is part of our “Why We…” series, exploring the traditions that make New Orleans unique. Join us next week for another deep dive into the customs and culture of the Crescent City.

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Your NOLA Weekend: Parade Season Heats Up (Feb 14-16)

Local News You Should Know

Scrim’s Finally Home!

Our favorite runaway pup has finally been caught, healthy and happy after months of adventuring through the city. Look for him in upcoming Mardi Gras parades – this local celebrity has earned his spot on several floats! (And if you think Scrim is a free spirit who should be allowed to roam … keep rooting for him!)

Tree Canopy Work Paused

Our city’s effort to restore the 200,000 trees lost during Katrina has hit a roadblock with recent funding freezes. The nonprofit leading this vital work may need to pause operations by mid-April.

Parade Ground Rules

While the city has new rules about parade route spaces, enforcement will focus on security rather than spot-saving this year. The eternal debate about ladders, tarps, and spots

Weekend Events

Friday Night

  • Krewe Boheme
    • Rolls through the French Quarter
    • Parade starts at 6:00 PM
    • Known for artistic throws and imaginative costumes

Saturday

  • Bywater Neighborhood Tour with Friends of the Cabildo
    • Explore one of our most historic neighborhoods
    • Learn about architecture and cultural changes
    • Registration required

Saturday Night

  • Krewe du Vieux takes to the streets
    • Known for satire and adult themes
    • Route starts in Marigny
    • Expect big crowds

Sunday

  • C.T.C. Steppers Second Line (1:00 PM – 5:00 PM)
    • 25th Anniversary parade
    • Starts at Front Row Art Lounge, 2128 St. Claude Ave
    • Features Da Truth Brass Band & Big Six Brass Band
    • Check our recent “Why We Second Line” guide for parade etiquette
  • ‘tit Rex (New Orleans’ smallest parade)
  • Krewe of Nefertiti

For all parade routes and times: https://www.mardigrasneworleans.com/parades/

Pro Tips

  • Read weather forecasts carefully for parade planning
  • Bring cash for street vendors
  • Check parade routes for road closures
  • Street parking will be limited

Looking Ahead

Don’t miss the Chamber Champagne Stroll next Tuesday evening – a perfect chance to explore Canal Street’s historic buildings and newest additions while enjoying beverages!

Follow us for real-time updates throughout the weekend!

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Why We Second Line: Understanding New Orleans’ Living Cultural Tradition

Brass band playing in the street in New Orleans.
Brass band playing in the street in New Orleans.

If you’ve spent any time in New Orleans, you’ve likely heard the phrase “second line” – maybe referring to a wedding celebration, a Sunday afternoon parade, or even as a verb (“We second lined all the way home!”). But to truly understand this uniquely New Orleans tradition is to understand the heart of the city itself.

The Origins: More Than Just a Parade

Second lines grew from the tradition of jazz funerals, where mourners would follow behind the family of the deceased (the “first line”) and the brass band. After the burial, when the band would shift from dirges to upbeat music, the “second line” of mourners would transform their grief into celebration of life, dancing and twirling parasols in what we now recognize as the distinctive second line style.

But the deeper roots lie in the mutual aid societies and Social Aid & Pleasure Clubs of the late 1800s. In a time when insurance and social services were often denied to Black New Orleanians, these organizations provided crucial support to their members – helping with medical bills, funeral costs, and other emergencies. The parade tradition grew from their annual celebrations and public demonstrations of community strength.

The Modern Second Line

Today’s second lines happen nearly every Sunday from late August through June, primarily in neighborhoods like Treme, Central City, and the 7th Ward. Each parade is hosted by a different Social Aid & Pleasure Club, whose members spend all year preparing their elaborate outfits and saving dues to pay for the bands and permits.

The parades typically start around 1 PM and last for about 4 hours, winding through neighborhoods with several designated stops at bars or community gathering spots. The club members, dressed in their finest suits, dresses, and matching accessories, lead the parade along with brass bands that keep the crowd moving with New Orleans classics and contemporary hits.

How to Participate (Respectfully)

For transplants and visitors, participating in a second line is one of the most direct ways to experience New Orleans culture – but it comes with responsibilities:

  • Follow the parade route as part of the second line (never try to join the first line of club members)
  • Bring cash to support vendors and tip the bands
  • Stay hydrated (especially in summer) and wear comfortable shoes
  • Be respectful of the neighborhoods you’re passing through
  • Ask before taking photos of club members
  • Listen to police and parade marshals

Finding Second Lines

The most reliable way to find weekly second line schedules is through WWOZ’s “Takin’ It to the Streets” calendar, updated every Wednesday. Some of the biggest annual second lines include:

  • Prince of Wales on Mardi Gras morning
  • Original Big 7 in May
  • Perfect Gentlemen on Father’s Day

The Bigger Picture

Understanding second line culture means understanding that these aren’t just parades – they’re demonstrations of community solidarity, celebrations of life, and assertions of cultural pride. When you join a second line, you’re not just watching New Orleans culture – you’re participating in it.

The tradition continues to evolve while maintaining its core purpose: bringing people together in celebration. Whether it’s a traditional Sunday parade or a jazz funeral, the second line remains one of New Orleans’ most vibrant and meaningful cultural practices.

Creating Your Own Second Line

One of the beautiful things about New Orleans culture is how welcoming it is – and second lines are no exception. While Sunday second lines are the domain of Social Aid & Pleasure Clubs, you can organize your own second line to celebrate life’s big moments:

  • Weddings: Perhaps the most common personal second lines, where newlyweds lead their guests through the French Quarter or other neighborhoods
  • Birthdays: Especially popular for milestone birthdays
  • Graduations: A joyful way to mark academic achievements
  • Business openings: Many new businesses announce their arrival with a second line
  • Family reunions: Bringing multiple generations together in true New Orleans style

To organize your own second line, you’ll need:

  • A brass band (book well in advance – popular bands are often reserved months ahead)
  • A parade permit from the city
  • A planned route (typically 15-30 minutes for personal celebrations)
  • Optional but fun: Parasols, handkerchiefs, or custom throws for your guests

Remember that while personal second lines are a wonderful way to celebrate, they should always be conducted with respect for the tradition’s deep cultural roots. Whether it’s a traditional Sunday parade, a wedding second line in the French Quarter, or a jazz funeral, the second line remains one of New Orleans’ most vibrant and meaningful cultural practices.

Looking Forward

As New Orleans faces challenges from gentrification to climate change, Social Aid & Pleasure Clubs continue their tradition of community support and cultural preservation. The second line tradition reminds us that in New Orleans, culture isn’t something that happens on a stage or behind velvet ropes – it happens in the streets, created by and for the community.

This post is part of our “Why We…” series, exploring the traditions that make New Orleans unique. Check back weekly for new insights into the customs and culture of the Crescent City.

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The Crescent City is the door to the Gulf

“1.21 million passengers boarded or got off a cruise ship in 2024, according to the Port of New Orleans.” according to NOLA.com.

The French originally founded the city of New Orleans in 1718 to control access to the Gulf of Mexico. (They established their city in the land of Bulbancha, the land of many tongues, frequented by local indigenous tribes who had been using the land as a meeting spot for thousands of years.)

New Orleans is still valued as a door to the Gulf of Mexico.

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St Louis Cathedral’s roof saved by Jewish, gay, preservationist

In 1915 , William Ratcliffe Irby donated $125,000 to the Catholic church in order to rebuild the roof of the St Louis cathedral that had been demolished in a category 4 hurricane. He asked to be anonymous and they respected his wishes. His donation was not attributed to him until after his death.

William Ratcliff Irby was a wealthy, gay, Jewish, tobacco company executive, banker, and New Orleans philanthropist.

Sources

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History of the Brennan’s Building

The Brennan’s building at 417 Royal Street has been many things.

  • It was built by the great-grandfather of Edgar Degas, the artist.
  • It housed the the first bank established after the Louisians Purchase, Banque de la Louisiane.  
  • It was the home of Paul Morphy, the world chess champion. He died there in 1884.
  • It was a brothel.
  • It was supposedly donated to Tulane by William Ratcliffe Irby in 1920. (Although many sources say Irby donated the property to Tulane, the property records show it going directly from Florench Krach to Tulane.)
  • It was rented from Tulane by Owen Brennan who established the Brennan Restaurant.

Brennan’s still operates out of 417 Royal Street today and is most famous for brunch at Brennan’s and as the place bananas foster were invented.

Sources:

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Preserving the French Quarter

Today the Vieux Carre Commission protects the historic nature of the French Quarter but this is is a recent development in the last century.

As the story goes, in the 1920s, Elizabeth Werlein from Michigan was walking down Royal Street in the French Quarter when she discovered that a historic building had been replaced by a California bungalow.

Werlein got a constitutional amendment passed that allowed the View Carre Commission to approve all changes to historic buildings in the French Quarter. In addition, she got the city council to give the commission the right to review and approve all demolition permits.

The French Quarter was headed for decline in the 1920s and Werlein’s work helped preserve it to be the historical neighborhood it is today.

The California bungalow at 813 Royal Street:

The California bungalow at 813 Royal Street

Source:
111 Places in New Orleans that you must not miss
Wikipedia

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Cuban Cabildos

The tie between Cuba and New Orleans was strong until the American embargo against Cuban which hurt the economy of New Orleans.

New Orleans was seen as the northern most Caribbean city and had strong economic ties to the entire Caribbean, including Cuba, throughout the 1700 and 1800s

Both Cuba and New Orleans had slaves and their slave cultures (and the culture of the free people of color) influenced each other.

In Cuba, authorities allowed slaves to meet in “cabildos”, groups of slaves of the same ethnic group. In those organizations they were allowed to practice their own religious and cultural rights (although they were all still baptized Catholic.) While the authorities might have meant this as a way to make sure the enslaved people did not unite across ethnic groups, it ultimately allowed them to build a stronger culture. In Cuba today, they still celebrate traditional ethnic festivities on January 6th.

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Christmas in New Orleans

There is a lot to do at Christmas time in New Orleans.

  1. Check out the Christmas lights on St Charles Avenue. All of the mansions on St. Charles are beautifully decorated. You can take the streetcar from 3rd Street to Carrolton and back to see them.
  2. Bonfires on the levee on Christmas Eve. Start on River Road in Laplace and drive west through Reserve to Gramercy. Go before dusk to see the bonfire preparations. Fires are lit after dark.
  3. Celebration in the Oaks. You can drive your car through City Park to see all of the decorated oak trees. You can also buy a ticket to walk through the botanical gardens and ride the carousel.
  4. Christmas caroling in Jackson Square. The Sunday before Christmas people gather in Jackson Square to sing Christmas carols. Volunteers hand out song books and candles. Caroling begins at 7pm.
  5. Roosevelt Hotel lobby. Several of the hotels have beautiful decorations in the lobby. The Roosevelt always has a beautiful collection of Christmas trees. Walk through the lobby and stop and have a slow gin fizz or a sazerac at the Sazerac bar. (In the 1949 when women were first allowed to drink in bars in New Orleans, women “stormed” the Sazerac. There is a celebration every year.)
  6. Reveillon dinners. During the month of December, many of the restaurants in New Orleans have special Christmas menus, called a Reveillon dinner, that consists of several dishes. It’s in memory of the big meal families would eat after Christmas Eve mass. Recommendations are recommended!
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